Dear Dr. Levister: My scalp is oily yet I have itching and dandruff. What can I do?  G.W.

Dr. Ermest Levister Jr.

There is a common misconception that dandruff is caused by scalp skin being too dry. Hence some people avoid washing their hair, believing that the drying effect of shampoo will worsen their dandruff.

Your scalp is probably not being cleansed enough; the scale is building up into larger, more noticeable flakes before it falls off the skin. Dandruff is caused by micro-organism called pityrosporum-ovle which are present in everybody's scalp. Symptoms of dandruff get aggravated when exposed to dust, UV light, harsh chemical based shampoos, hair dyes, lye based hair relaxers etc. This results in  increase of microbes which causes residue over the scalp. Minor scalp irritations can cause discomfort and embarrassment, most conditions can be avoided or remedied with hair care know how.  

The scalp problem dermatologists see most often in Black patients is seborrheic dermatitis.  Here are some simple ways to keep dandruff under control. Pass on oiling your scalp. African-Americans tend to have oily scalps so adding oil is unnecessary.  Use a creamy conditioner designed for dry hair. For daily up keep, try Luster's "Pink" a light hair lotion. Massage gently through the hair. Avoid over saturation.  Avoid products containing alcohol. Don't scratch the scalp. Scratching may bring temporary relief, but can lead to irritation.  Shampoo at least once a week.  Massage shampoo into the roots let it sit about 5 minutes. Distribute lather down the hair shafts and rinse.  If flaking persists, use a tar based dandruff shampoo. Neutrogena Therapeutic T/Gel shampoo is a popular favorite.  Dandruff shampoos can be drying, use them only on the scalp. Use a milder shampoo on the rest of the hair. If your condition persists after several weeks of home treatments, see a dermatologist. A professional with knowledge of Black hair can prescribe a more potent prescription shampoo or a topical steroid treatment.

Last, be sure your hairdresser is not the culprit.  Using professional chemicals, especially lye-based products and certain hair dyes can cause allergic reactions and scalp burns.  Tight braiding or weaving can cause the scalp to become inflamed or ooze. Don't be timid, say stop if a styling process burns or hurts.